Jackson in a Day
08/19/04

During breakfast at Cowboy Cafe this morning, I overheard a couple saying they were going to Jackson, then into Yellowstone today. I spoke with them and they agreed to give me a ride. I had half an hour to finish packing and do my post office business. They would look for me on the side of the road.

I missed the ride! I couldn't get out of the PO fast enough.

I made a Jackson sign and had about 40 minute wait until a glass artist from Vancouver, BC, picked me up. He even waited while I picked up my bug/sun pants from Spur. Ready, his wife, had added zippers to the ankles so they could fit over shoes. She added sparkly boa feathers to the zipper pulls in a bit of faerie inspiration. They are great. The boa accents got moved to my pack.

As I continued with my ride, I saw what a hard hitch it would be to get back to the pass from Jackson. Another adventure.

I saw two gear shops and had my ride drop me off.

I found the shoes I eventually ended up buying in the first store, but went to the second, where I didn't even try anything on.

Since these were the first outfitters for backpackers since I started the trail, I picked up a few things I had meant to bring, like a Therm-a-Rest patch kit. Old shoes in hand, I made my way to the post office. I then did some phone business, like post some journal entries, and set off to get back on the trail.

If you've never been to Jackson, you know places like it: bizarre traffic problems, façade-ism, inordinate proportion of visitor-serving businesses, like art galleries and sweatshirt shops, and either fat people wandering around delighted by it all or wealthy people buying it.

I had an OK mexican food lunch, then left Jackson behind.

As I've mentioned, it's illegal to hitch-hike in Wyoming. I created a sign, attached it to my backpack and began walking out of town, after a futile attempt at the visitor's center to find a sub-$100 public transportation alternative to hitching.

I knew I'd have to get out of the town area before I could secure a ride. I think it's a visual thing. In town, there's too much to look at. On the road out of town, a hitcher stands out a bit more.

I walked a mile or two before stopping. I never put my thumb out. I just looked at the drivers, pack at my feet (with sign), and thought encouraging thoughts. My first ride was a cool guy who gave me the 'only going a short distance' sign, but I nodded and he stopped. I helped that it had just started raining.

He apologized that he could only take me 7 miles, but it was the rainiest 7 miles of my trip so far, so I was glad he did. The rain had just stopped when he dropped me off.

My second ride was a naturalist from Yellowstone. She answered all my questions about the local geology of the Tetons, the effects of glaciation, and the strange formations along the highway. She took me to Moran Junction, which put me around the corner, so to speak. From Moran Junction, it was a straight shot to Togwotee Mountain Lodge. Before too long, a Russian couple from New York State picked me up. Their life, or at least their vacation, was about serene confusion and unclarity, but the back of their rental mini-van did have an automatic door lifter, so that was cool. They took me to the Hatchet campground.

A young Pennsylvania couple took me the rest of the way.

I had dinner at the Togwotee Mountain Lodge, which Spur had raved about, then set out walking along the highway.

I think I did about 4 miles before I stepped off the side of the road and found a level spot in tall grass between two trees. I feel like a hobo or vagabond tonight, but the clouds have gone and the stars are my friends.
- posted by JustSit @ 7:50 PM